Automotive:
E3 Spark Plugs for automotive applications have a unique three-leg ground electrode that is pre-gapped at our factory to meet the O.E. requirements for the vehicles they are listed to fit. No further gapping is required.
Lawn & Garden and PowerSport
E3 Lawn & Garden and PowerSport plugs are gapped at the factory, but may require some adjustment to meet your O.E. engine requirements.
Applying the Correct Torque:
When torquing a new spark plug, ALWAYS follow the instructions listed below or in the manufacturer’s literature. Improper torquing can lead to engine damage!
The first step required for proper torquing of the plug is clean thread surfaces. Clean threads will ensure a tight seal and maximum performance.
If anti-seize compound is to be used, it should be applied sparingly as this could foul the plug, produce excessive carbon build-up on the threads, as well as give off fumes once the engine gets to operating temperature.
The torque requirements vary greatly from engine to engine. Care must be taken when torquing spark plugs, especially in softer aluminum engines.
The proper torque of a spark plug is easiest to achieve with a torque wrench. In the absence of this tool, the table below also provides a guide to torquing based on the number of turns after the plug becomes finger-tight.
The table below lists the torquing specifications for most spark plugs in both cast iron and aluminum cylinder heads.
Torque values assume clean, dry threads. The use of anti-seize or thread lubricants will modify these values unpredictably
EXAMPLE (without a torque wrench): A tapered-seat spark plug would be tightened by 1/16th of a turn past finger tight, as shown in the illustration: